In her beautiful and passionate memoir "The Country Under My Skin", the famous author and poet Gioconda Belli describes her country Nicaragua as "a tiny rebel nation, which seemed to be constantly embroiled in some war or another, and where the United States acted the role of both referee and player" But after years of civil unrest, political turmoil, and foreign interference, the country is gradually rebuilding. Compared to its neighbor Costa Rica, Nicaragua is more affordable and far less touristy, making it an authentic Central America experience and a perfect destination for all kinds of tastes and all travelers. In the short trip we took there we loved every corner of this wonderful land, and we just started to seize its magical atmosphere, so that we promised ourselves that we will definitely be back!
FLIGHTS
Since for our week in Nicaragua we decided to visit Granada first and move to the beach after, we flew into Managua (we took an American Airlines flight from JFK to MIA and then to MAN) and then drove east to Granada and then south to the coast, so that we could fly back with a direct flight from there using the very efficient Costarican airport of Liberia, which is not far from the border with Nicaragua (United Airlines flight LIB-EWR). If you plan to go with this option though, take into account the time to cross the border by foot - at least two more hours, on top of the actual ride time: when we did it there were huge lines at both custom controls!
TRANSPORTATION
As much as we would have loved to travel by the local and colorful buses called "chicken buses" (old converted US school buses that are everywhere in Central America) which would have been fun and cheap, for the two main transfers to and from Granada and to the airport in Liberia, we opted instead for private taxis, that are very affordable ($40 for an hour drive, $60 for two hours) and very efficient. These rides gave us also the chance to chat with very nice and friendly men from the area that opened for us a small window into the Nicaraguan culture - one even stopped at his local pueblo by the lake to let us see "the best view on the Ometepe island".
You can book these private shuttles with the hotel where you're staying (many times they can also help you find them for small trips - we used one to take us to the Lake Momabcho Reserve) or through the many transport agencies that run this business - we booked ours from the airport with Booking and then we arranged the others with a local company I had found online (this is the one I used). This time we didn't consider renting a car, first because, as it is in Costa Rica, it's very expensive (due to the pricey insurance coverage costs necessary for the unpredictable road conditions), but also because we stayed in only two places and we really didn't have much time to drive around in between. I have to say that for once we really enjoyed being transported and not having to think of anything else other than chatting and looking at the view from the window!
Located on the eastern shore of the great Lago Nicaragua (the second-largest lakein Latin America, called Lago Cocicalba by its indigenous people) Granada had been the stage of wars and conflicts ever since it was founded in 1598. When Managua became the country's capital, Granada retired like a lovely lady to live out a restful old age. In the shadows of graceful mansions, its inhabitants cultivated a kind of phlegmatic skepticism that made them immune to political enthusiasm and passions. The favorite pastime Of Granadans was to sway on the rocking chairs at their front doors in the afternoons, to see what was going by, chat and watch the sunset", and I wished we had more evenings to spend there, as it was truly the most magical moment of our stay there.
For the two nights we spent there, we stayed at the wonderful bed & breakfast Miss Margrits, a charming colonial house a few blocks from the city's main square - and this was the best choice because it was beautiful in every detail and such a perfect introduction to Nicaragua. We arrived late at night because our flight was delayed, and following the recommendation of the hotel manager, we bought some delicious fried food served in a giant banana leaf from the nearby street food vendor inside a garage. The next morning we decided to go see the Reserva Natural Volcán Mombacho, which is just 30 minutes away and really worth-it, because the 1350 m high dormant vulcano offers a fantastic view on Granada, the lake and the Las Isletas and hosts a beautiful cloud forest. The guides take you with a small van from the entrance of the the park to the beginning of the trails - we did El Sendero del Cratér (1,5 km) and even though we didn't have much view because the top of the vulcano that day was very wet and foggy, the atmosphere was wonderful and we saw a lot of plants and orchids and passed through fumaroles and small "tunnels" through the rock, which was very unique.
We then came back to Granada just in time for lunch at the very famous - and for a reason - The Garden Cafe, which is right behind the main square and hides, like many buildings in Granada, a truly beautiful and peaceful garden and patio, where you can eat (they have a fabulous small bakery) and relax. It also has a very nice shop that sells artisanal products and jewelry. Despite being probably the main hub for tourists in town, it is really worth a stop.
In the afternoon we had the chance to wander around the picturesque and colorful streets of Granada, and we particularly loved the area north of the Parque Central, around the Convento San Francisco - which is very much whort a visit.
Along some other beautiful mansions that are now guesthouses, Granada is very famous among backpackers, so there are many budget hotels and hostels where you can stay, for very convenient prices. I would suggest the area west of the Plaza Central (rather than the east) because my impression si that it tends to be a little more quiet and residential.
It was our very first "surf and yoga retreat", and it completely blown us away!!
Costa Dulce (which, we later found, is pretty well-known among the eco-wellness resorts in Central America) sits where the jungle spills straight onto the sand, a quiet stretch of Playa Escameca where the days feel guided by light, tide, and breeze. Our cabin was perched on the beach cliff, among flowering trees and overlooking the roaring ocean. Mornings found me in the open-air GORGEOUS yoga shala at 7:30 am, moving slowly as the Pacific stretched out in front of us and the birds sang, while Luigi grabbed his board and headed for the water, drawn by the clean, uncrowded waves rolling in.
surroundings. The beach itself felt wild and spacious, the kind of place where footprints disappear quickly and time loses its edges. At one end of the beach that it's a beautiful river where alligators sometimes swim! Between sessions, we wandered back through the jungle paths or along the wildest beaches, rinsed off the salt, and let the afternoon heat slow us down completely.
Meals became their own ritual. We gathered at long communal tables for fresh, colorful, farm-to-table dishes (for which Costa Dulce is also famous for, they even have a cookbook), full of tropical fruit, vibrant vegetables, and thoughtfully prepared proteins. Everything felt nourishing without being fussy — food that restored energy after the ocean and the mat, and brought everyone together as the sun dipped low. At Costa Dulce, nature, movement, and meals flowed seamlessly into one another, making the experience feel both grounding and quietly unforgettable. On top of that, we also made great friends, that connected us even more to that place and that special week of our life! Absolutely an experience that I would recommend.
Luigi met Tim on the waves on Playa Escameca...