Nestled in the sun-drenched landscapes of the Val di Noto in south-eastern Sicily, a series of spectacular small cities embody the unique spirit of the Sicilian Baroque like nowhere else on the island. From the enchanting, honey-coloured palaces of Noto to the elegant beauty of Ragusa and Modica's jaw-dropping cathedral, these incredible UNESCO World Heritage sites were born from tragedy: a powerful earthquake devastated the cities in 1693, but from the ashes and debris of destruction arose the opportunity to recast the cities in a bombastic, up-to-the-minute architectural idiom. Today the Baroque cities of the Val di Noto are not only stunning architectural showcases, but also charming, off-the-beaten path destinations where you can immerse yourself in the captivating rhythms of Sicily.
Noto, is arguably the capitol of southeastern Sicily’s Baroque cities, with its impressive palaces, churches and piazzas all constructed in the ornate Baroque style that characterizes 18th-century Sicilian architecture. First settled by the ancient Siculi tribe, over the centuries the city came under the sway of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab and Norman dominion, each contributing to Noto’s complex cultural mosaic. You will arrive or park at the Villa Coumunale and enter the old town from the Porta Reale. Pretty much everything you need to see is on Corso Vittorio Emanuele: certainly the Church of San Francesco d'Assisi dell'Immacolata, the first one you'll meet on the right together with the beautiful steps (portrayed in a scene of The White Lotus 2, which was actually reenacting a famous movie by Michelangelo Antonioni, l'Avventura, with the wonderful Monica Vitti) the fountain in the front, then the two churches of Santa Chiara e San salvatore, and a 100 meteres ahead, the majestic Cattedrale di Noto, on the right and, right in front, Palazzo Ducezio, which is Noto's town hall. Make sure you have a granita (and a pastry) at the historic Caffè Sicilia, and walk up on Via Nicolaci to see Palazzo Nicolaci. You can tehn stroll on Via Camillo Benso di cavour to the church of Santa Caterina and Palazzo Castelluccio and go down again on Via Galilei to meet Corso Vittorio Emaneuele again, where you'll turn left and get to the beautiful square where the Teatro Barocco is and the Church of San Domenico. Via Ducezio, one below the main street, is also nice. We ate at Ristorante Geranio there and at Trattoria Fontana d'Ercole, both very good. We also had a good pizza at the Pizzeria Orto Santa Chiara. There are many artists studios and galleries in Noto, my sister, who is an habituée there, recommends to see Sergio Fiorentino
The Natural Riserva di Vendicari along the coast of Noto is also an must-see place, with many beautiful hikes and beaches. We parked and entered through the main gate and visited the historic Tonnara di Vendicari, then from there we hiked north to the fabulous Calamosche beach. Other nice places in the park are San Lorenzo, which has one of the nicest beaches of the area (set Google Map here, at the Maccari entrance) and also the naturist beach of Marianelli. Right there you can also go see the Villa romana del Tellaro, covered with beautiful roman mosaics!
Marzamemi is a tiny fishermen village that became quite popular during the last years, also thanks to famous fashion campaigns of Dolce and Gabbana. Park in or near the big parking lot here and walk towards Don Peppinu (stop there for a granita) and the tuna factory store of Campisi (where you can find many Sicilian products), then head towards to Tonnara di Marzamemi and enjoy the two lovely squares along the little port, before getting to the main Antico Borgo dei Pescatori. We ate dinner at the famous Taverna La Cialoma and had an apertivo right before at the cute wine place/bookstore Liccamucciola on the opposite side of the square.
Spectacularly sited amongst the rocky crags and valleys of the Hyblaean Mountains, Ragusa is the glittering gem of the Sicilian Baroque. Boasting breathtaking landscapes, rich history and splendid Baroque architecture, well-heeled Ragusa is one of Sicily’s top must-visit destinations.
Ragusa is divided into two distinct areas: Ragusa Ibla, the historic lower town, and Ragusa Superiore, the (comparatively) modern upper town. The two parts are separated by a spectacular deep ravine, connected by picturesque bridges and winding streets. The city's unique geography offers panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and hills, making it a photographer's paradise. Make sure to spend at least half a day in Ragusa Ibla, between the marvelous Giardino Ibleo (go see also the Portale di San Giorgio) and the fabulous Piazza Duomo. On the way to to Duomo, stop at the small and charming Teatro Donnafugata, an amazing theatre built in 1800 in a very elegant palazzo. I happen to know the owner, who also organizes many beautiful cultural activities and shows there. There is a very beautiful view point here.
Just over 10 km from Ragusa, the story of Modica neatly matches that of its neighbor. A fascinating tangle of alleys and piazzas winding up hills and down gorges via steep staircases, like Ragusa Modica also unfolds in two distinct areas: "Modica Alta" (Upper Modica) and "Modica Bassa" (Lower Modica). Dominating the old town is Modica’s truly jaw-dropping 18th-century San Giorgio cathedral, with a beautiful three-tiered facade of honey-coloured stone and a wonderful bell tower (I encourage you to climb it for the view!). For sweet-tooths, Modica is a must-visit destination thanks to its status as one of the world’s great chocolate making hubs. We tried it at the two famous cioccolaterie Sabadì and Bonajuto: both amazing!
Scicli is also much worth-it a stop: from the main square of Piazza Municipio (which is also the main film location of the Commissariato di Vigata of the famous tv series of Montalbano) with the nearby Palazzo Spadaro, explore also the area of the church of San Bartolomeo and climb to the caves of A Rutta ri Don Carmelo: you'll go back in time!
Last but not least: check this absolutely unique pizzeria located inside the caves of Ispica, a must-do experience!
If you want to add two other nice beaches, check the one at the Isola delle Correnti and the one at Portopalo, together with another nice Vecchia Tonnara.