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Sicily

Overview

Sicily has always been one of my favorite places in Italy and I have been there many times over the past years, taking the chance to visit many places and also to explore some of the small islands around it -which really complete the wonderful experience. 


Sicily is in fact the Quintessential Mediterranean island, so full not only of natural wonders and the fantastic sea surrounding it -made even more special by the almost always sunny weather- but also so rich in history, art, culture and the most delicious food. In one trip you can basically go back in time and see all different historic ages in more than 2 millennia but you can on the same day climb the black slopes of a vulcano and dive into the most turquoise waters, see an ancient greek temple and a medieval church covered in golden mosaics, or have an elegant dinner on the wonderful baroque streets of Noto. It is not a surprise then that  over the years, several locations – Aeolian Islands, the Villa Romana del Casale, the baroque towns of the Noto Valley, the Etna Volcano and the Valley of the Temples in Agrigento – have been listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites.


It is a huge island though, and you need to plan ahead  and have at least 10 days if you want to get a general idea of it without sacrificing anything. Or, which is my suggestion, you can focus on one area -for example the Eastern or the Western Sicily, which are quite distinct in many ways - and get a full, richer experience of it.


Practical tips

You can reach Sicily very easily by plane: the last two times we flew with Ryan Air from Torino to Palermo, which has a modern airport, and with EasyJet from Milano to Catania, that has a bigger one (there is also a small airport in Trapani). Or you can go there by boat - we took the ferry twice, once from Genova and once from Civitavecchia - by car (you will have to take the ferry called "Caronte" from Reggio Calabria to Messina -the ride is 20 minutes long and very conveniently organized) or by train (which also goes on the ferry to cross the strait).


We always rented cars in Sicily, once with Hertz in Trapani (where they were super helpful) and twice with SicilyByCar, which is a very good local company with many locations everywhere (the airport in Catania has a large hub with many other car rentals). Driving can be a little challenging in the big cities because of the traffic and especially the amount of motoscooters ;-) 

There is a whole section dedicated to the Islands of Sicily, in particular Favignana, Marettimo, Salina and Stromboli. You find all the info clicking on the link below.

Sicilian Islands

short history and geography

You can't understand Sicily without learning its incredible history, because everywhere you go you will see a monument, a church, a ruin that will remind you that this island has been at the center of Mediterranea for literally millennia.

(The text below is stolen from this website because I am not an historian)

In addition to being the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea and the largest region inItaly, Sicily has a very distinct culture from mainland Italy. Thousands of years of rule by greater powers, including Roman, Byzantine, Islamic, Norman, Hohenstaufen, Catalan, Spanish, interspersed by short periods of independence, have all played their part in Sicily’s fascinating history and contributed considerably to so many aspects of the island’s incredible historic and cultural heritage. The Sicani, Elimi and the Siculi were the first powers to influence Sicilian soil, followed by the Phoenicians, the Carthaginians and the Greeks. Sicily was colonized by the Greeks in the 8th century BC with the most important colony established at Syracuse. Greek domination ended in 212BC with the siege at Syracuse in which Archimedes died but the Greek colonies at Selinunte and Himera were immensely prosperous and their importance is still in evidence today when you visit them. There then followed six centuries of Roman rule in which Sicily was utilized primarily for its grain fields, but this domination came to a crashing end after the barbarian invasion which resulted in Byzantine, and later Arabic, rule. This was the period in which citrus fruits, pistachio and sugar cane were brought to Sicily and became the most distinct traits of its culinary tradition. The Normans (a population coming from Normandy, in the north of France) took possession of Sicily in 1071 resulting in a period in which the Kingdom of Sicily was both wealthy and politically powerful.  A continued acceptance of Arab administration and Arab and Byzantine craftsmen left behind a phenomenal legacy of art and architecture, still evident in the Norman Palace and Palatine Chapel and the Royal Palace in Palermo and the majestic cathedral at Monreale.  Subsequent centuries saw the arrival of the Hohenstaufen, the Angevin French and latterly, the Aragonese, who initiated five centuries of Spanish domination of Sicily from 1282. The Bourbon influence in Sicily began in 1734, included the merging of the Kingdoms of Naples and Sicily in 1816, and lasted until 1860 when Garibaldi embarked upon his unification of Italy, defeating the Bourbons.  

The twentieth century started badly, marked by a disastrous earthquake in Messina in 1908, a reluctance to adapt to unification and ultimately mass emigration of around 1.5 million. Unfortunately that was also the time when the Mafia became an intrinsic element of life in Sicily with the Italian state unable to impose its own legal constraints. In 1946, the island was established as an autonomous region ofItaly.


Geographically speaking,  Sicily is not only the big crocodile-head shaped island that you know it's at the very south of Italy, but also of many smaller islands that are grouped into three main archipelagos: the Aeolian islands, above the north eastern coast (with Salina, Lipari, Vulcano, Panarea and Stromboli), the Aegadian islands off of the western coast (with Favignana, Levanzo and Marettimo), the Pelagie off the southern's (with Lampedusa, Linosa and Lampione) and the beautiful islands of Pantelleria (closer to the African coast than Italy) and Ustica.

PALERMO and MONREALE

CEFALÙ, CATANIA & THE etna, TAORMINA AND SIRACUSA

SEGESTA, AGRIGENTO & Trapani

"Having been the crossroads of civilisations for many centuries, Palermo delivers a heady, heavily spiced mix of Byzantine mosaics, Arabesque domes and frescoed cupolas. This is a city at the edge of Europe and at the centre of the ancient world, a place where souk-like markets rub up against baroque churches, where date palms frame Gothic palaces and where the blue-eyed and fair have bronze-skinned cousins" (from Lonely Planet's guide to Silicy, 2024).

This is what we saw last time we were there (for three days):

I suggest to start from the lovely harbor of La Cala and walk along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, until the area of the Quattro Canti, which is also very near the very lively area, especially at night, of the Vucciria (we stayed in a lovely b&b there). Must-seen monuments are the incredible Cappella Palatina of the Palazzo dei Normanni (which is the Region Parliament and a UNESCO World Heritage site for its amazing mosaics) in the beautiful Piazza Indipendenza and of course, the Cattedrale di Palermo just before that. From the very central Quattro Canti intersection you can also go see the byzantine church of the Martorana near the Fontana Pretoria, the Norman one of San Cataldo, and the baroque one of the Oratorio San Lorenzo, and from there explore the very authentic neighborhoods of Ballarò (named from its famous market, where I invite you to eat the street food) and the Kalsa, especially around the Giardini Garibaldi. Near there, we visited the impressive "Museo Internazionale della Marionette". The more elegant area of Palermo is instead Via Maqueda around the Teatro Massimo, where the more upscale restaurants are. Must-do places to try to taste the original Palermo specialities are the Antica Focacceria San Francesco, Nini Franco U Vastiddaru (all it's fried food is exceptional!) and the ristorante "A Cala". 

Eight kilometers from the city center, reachable by car or bus you must visit the Cattedrale di Monreale: incorporating Norman, Arab, Byzantine and classical elements, the cathedral is considered the finest example of Norman architecture in Sicily. It's also one of the most impressive architectural legacies of the Italian Middle Ages. If you have time, try also to go hang out for a couple of hours at the beautiful beach of Mondello, Palermitani's weekend hangout.

SEGESTA, AGRIGENTO & Trapani

CEFALÙ, CATANIA & THE etna, TAORMINA AND SIRACUSA

SEGESTA, AGRIGENTO & Trapani

These three temples sites, scattered in an area of 200 km in the western part of Sicily, are absolutely a must-see if you want to appreciate the glorious past of the Magna Grecia, the greek colonies that thrived in the South of Italy for many centuries before Christ, prior being annexed to the Romand Empire.

If you come from Palermo, you will meet first Segesta, which stands on top of a hill surrounded by a superb landscape. You can then drive south down to the coast and stop in Selinunte, whose most famous temple faces directly the sea. The whole area around is full of other greek ruins, preserved by an archeological park. Last time we were there we stayed in a lovely bed and breakfast in the small fishermen town of Sciacca, a good place to experience authentic Sicily. 

But undoubtably the most famous attraction of this historic area is Agrigento, with its amazing Valle dei Templi, a vast and incredibly well-preserved site that counts seven greek temples and many other ruins scattered on top of a big hill. It's breathtaking! Make sure to also visit the beautiful Museo Archeologico Pietro Griffo nearby, and a few minutes from Agrigento, on the sea, I encourage you to go to the beautiful white cliffs of the Scala dei Turchi, a very unique part of this coast!


As for the cities of this part of Sicily, you may pass by Trapani on your way to the Aegadian Island (the area of the port is very characteristic, but you can also go see the Saline dello Stagnone, an hour south, famous for the salt baths and the old mills), while you should find a couple of hours to climb (by car) to the hilltop old town of Erice, where, again, many layers of history can be appreciated in just a few, charming streets. If it's hot (which is very likely in the summer), stop to have a granita in the garden of the famous Pasticceria Maria Grammatico!


A section of the coast that I never visited but is considerd one of the nicest of Sicily is the one between San Vito Lo Capo, Scopello and the Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro.


CEFALÙ, CATANIA & THE etna, TAORMINA AND SIRACUSA

CEFALÙ, CATANIA & THE etna, TAORMINA AND SIRACUSA

CEFALÙ, CATANIA & THE etna, TAORMINA AND SIRACUSA

Full disclosure: this is the area that I know slightly less because I was there many years ago (except Catania). 

Cefalù is a very beautiful town on the Northern coast, just an hour east of Palermo. Besides its unique location at the bottom of a rocky hill and its very picturesque streets, it boasts one of the most majestic Norman Cathedral of Sicily, with an incredible mosaic of Jesus. The beach is also popular (although non my favorite in the island) but it was used to film the beach scenes of The White Lotus 2! There are many beautiful agriturismi and masserie in the area so take the chance! Moving to the southern coast of Sicily, and talking about The White Lotus one must-seen place is of course Taormina, the "pearl of the Mediterranean", idyllically perched on a rocky promontory high above the sea. There you can see beautifully restored mediaeval buildings, breathtaking views around every corner and a giddy network of winding streets strewn with shops, bars and restaurants make for a perfect holiday spot. But the main attraction for me is the incredibly located Greek-Roman theatre, where you can still see shows and as Johann Wolfgang Goethe wrote in his famous Italian Journey wrote: “Never has the audience of a theatre seen a similar spectacle“. Catania is a big city (the second biggest in Sicily, and the first airport hub) and has a very particular atmosphere, being at the bottom of the Etna volcano - you will immediately notice the black lava dust on every building! The Piazza del Duomo is beautiful, with the Fontana dell'Elefante, and all the area around Piazza dell'Università e Via Etnea, which points exactly to the volcano. Get a delicious granita con brioche at the historic Prespitino Caffè and go to see the lively Fish Market, a slice of Sicilian Life! The one night we spent there in 2021 we slept in the beautiful historic and central building of Cataneasy and ate at the very local (and cheap!) Trattoria del Cavaliere, open until late at night!

As for the hikes and activities on the Etna volcano, the highest and the most active in Europe, and also a UNESCO site, check here. You can even do Wine and Tasting tours!

Lastly, you can't do a tour in Sicily without visiting Siracusa, with its finest examples of Baroque art and architecture and dramatic Greek and Roman ruins, that has on the small island of Ortigia right from the city center an exceptional example of Mediterranean fisherman town: absolutely worth a visit! You must also spend a day at the archeological park and possibly see a show performed by the famous Fondazione INDA at the Greek Theatre.

NOTO, RAGUSA IBLA, MODICA AND SCICLI

Nestled in the sun-drenched landscapes of the Val di Noto in south-eastern Sicily, a series of spectacular small cities embody the unique spirit of the Sicilian Baroque like nowhere else on the island. From the enchanting, honey-coloured palaces of Noto to the elegant beauty of Ragusa and Modica's jaw-dropping cathedral, these incredible UNESCO World Heritage sites were born from tragedy: a powerful earthquake devastated the cities in 1693, but from the ashes and debris of destruction arose the opportunity to recast the cities in a bombastic, up-to-the-minute architectural idiom. Today the Baroque cities of the Val di Noto are not only stunning architectural showcases, but also charming, off-the-beaten path destinations where you can immerse yourself in the captivating rhythms of Sicily.

Noto, is arguably the capitol of southeastern Sicily’s Baroque cities, with its impressive palaces, churches and piazzas all constructed in the ornate Baroque style that characterizes 18th-century Sicilian architecture. First settled by the ancient Siculi tribe, over the centuries the city came under the sway of Greek, Roman, Byzantine, Arab and Norman dominion, each contributing to Noto’s complex cultural mosaic. You will arrive or park at the Villa Coumunale and enter the old town from the Porta Reale. Pretty much everything you need to see is on Corso Vittorio Emanuele: certainly the Church of San Francesco d'Assisi dell'Immacolata, the first one you'll meet on the right together with the beautiful steps (portrayed in a scene of The White Lotus 2, which was actually reenacting a famous movie by Michelangelo Antonioni, l'Avventura, with the wonderful Monica Vitti) the fountain in the front, then the two churches of Santa Chiara e San salvatore, and a 100 meteres ahead, the majestic Cattedrale di Noto, on the right and, right in front, Palazzo Ducezio, which is Noto's town hall. Make sure you have a granita (and a pastry) at the historic Caffè Sicilia, and walk up on Via Nicolaci to see Palazzo Nicolaci. You can tehn stroll on Via Camillo Benso di cavour to the church of Santa Caterina and Palazzo Castelluccio and go down again on Via Galilei to meet Corso Vittorio Emaneuele again, where you'll turn left and get to the beautiful square where the Teatro Barocco is and the Church of San Domenico. Via Ducezio, one below the main street, is also nice. We ate at Ristorante Geranio there and at Trattoria Fontana d'Ercole, both very good. We also had a good pizza at the Pizzeria Orto Santa Chiara. There are many artists studios and galleries in Noto, my sister, who is an habituée there, recommends to see Sergio Fiorentino

The Natural Riserva di Vendicari along the coast of Noto is also an must-see place, with many beautiful hikes and beaches. We parked and entered through the main gate and visited the historic Tonnara di Vendicari, then from there we hiked north to the fabulous Calamosche beach. Other nice places in the park are  San Lorenzo, which has one of the nicest beaches of the area (set Google Map here, at the Maccari entrance) and also the naturist beach of Marianelli. Right there you can also go see the Villa romana del Tellaro, covered with beautiful roman mosaics!


Marzamemi is a tiny fishermen village that became quite popular during the last years, also thanks to famous fashion campaigns of Dolce and Gabbana. Park in or near the big parking lot here and walk towards Don Peppinu (stop there for a granita) and the tuna factory store of Campisi (where you can find many Sicilian products), then head towards to Tonnara di Marzamemi and enjoy the two lovely squares along the little port, before getting to the main Antico Borgo dei Pescatori. We ate dinner at the famous Taverna La Cialoma and had an apertivo right before at the cute wine place/bookstore Liccamucciola on the opposite side of the square.


Spectacularly sited amongst the rocky crags and valleys of the Hyblaean Mountains, Ragusa is the glittering gem of the Sicilian Baroque. Boasting breathtaking landscapes, rich history and splendid Baroque architecture, well-heeled Ragusa is one of Sicily’s top must-visit destinations. 

Ragusa is divided into two distinct areas: Ragusa Ibla, the historic lower town, and Ragusa Superiore, the (comparatively) modern upper town. The two parts are separated by a spectacular deep ravine, connected by picturesque bridges and winding streets. The city's unique geography offers panoramic views of the surrounding valleys and hills, making it a photographer's paradise. Make sure to spend at least half a day in Ragusa Ibla, between the marvelous Giardino Ibleo (go see also the Portale di San Giorgio) and the fabulous Piazza Duomo. On the way to to Duomo, stop at the small and charming Teatro Donnafugata, an amazing theatre built in 1800 in a very elegant palazzo. I happen to know the owner, who also organizes many beautiful cultural activities and shows there. There is a very beautiful view point here. 

Just over 10 km from Ragusa, the story of Modica neatly matches that of its neighbor. A fascinating tangle of alleys and piazzas winding up hills and down gorges via steep staircases, like Ragusa Modica also unfolds in two distinct areas: "Modica Alta" (Upper Modica) and "Modica Bassa" (Lower Modica). Dominating the old town is Modica’s truly jaw-dropping 18th-century San Giorgio cathedral, with a beautiful three-tiered facade of honey-coloured stone and a wonderful bell tower (I encourage you to climb it for the view!). For sweet-tooths, Modica is a must-visit destination thanks to its status as one of the world’s great chocolate making hubs.  We tried it at the two famous cioccolaterie Sabadì and Bonajuto: both amazing! 

Scicli is also much worth-it a stop: from the main square of Piazza Municipio (which is also the main film location of the Commissariato di Vigata of the famous tv series of Montalbano) with the nearby Palazzo Spadaro, explore also the area of the church of San Bartolomeo and climb to the caves of A Rutta ri Don Carmelo: you'll go back in time!

Last but not least: check this absolutely unique pizzeria located inside the caves of Ispica, a must-do experience!


If you want to add two other nice beaches, check the one at the Isola delle Correnti and the one at Portopalo, together with another nice Vecchia Tonnara.

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